[This message has been edited by pablo]
I just returned from a weekend trip to Jardín, Colombia. Some friends and I drove out to this lovely small mountain city in Antioquia from Medellin. I heard many times from local Paisas that this colonial pueblo was well worth the visit but never did I realize how wonderful this little mountain gem would turn out to be. I fell in love with that little town instantly. Surprisingly, I couldn’t find much written about Jardín and there is nothing in the latest edition of Lonely Planet’s book on Colombia. Jardín is a two and ˝ hour drive from Medellin.
The trip was very beautiful going through some scenic mountain ranges, crossing a couple rivers, and past a few small communities. The weather started to gradually change after crossing the first mountain range and got much warmer before starting to cool down as we started to climb in elevation once again. Jardín at 1750 meters, is slightly higher in elevation than Medellin but it seemed to be much cooler. The official year round temperature ranges from 19˚ to 25˚C. We enjoyed sun and billowy white clouds in the early afternoon but there was a drizzling cold rain all evening. The second day was wonderful, sunny and warm all day long.
One of the curious things we saw on the trip was a large mountain that looked like a huge solitary pyramid. It reminded me of the mountain in the Juan Valdez coffee logo, it is that steep. Speaking of coffee, we saw a lot of coffee plants along the highway starting around Andes (another mountain pueblo) and all the way into Jardin. To my delight, I noticed that many of the coffee plants were in bloom and suggested that we get out of the car for a closer inspection. These delicate white blooms only last a few days and have a wonderful jasmine like smell. I have visited a few coffee fincas before but never happened to be there at the same time the coffee was in bloom.
We stopped in the small city Andes, only 16 km from Jardín, to stretch our legs and ended up in the town square near the prominent cathedral. I really enjoy these “parque principals” where people have a chance to kick back and enjoy someone’s company, grab a bite to eat or just catch up on the latest gossip. The park is one square city block with a large water fountain in the center surrounded by various businesses and outdoor cafes. On one end is the large spire topped basilica. It seems like most Colombian cities have these churches and town squares as focal points of the city.
We made one more pit stop before hitting the road again by visiting one of the small businesses in Andes, a green bean coffee broker, where I eagerly bought some beans for a home roaster I have. I’m happy to report that the coffee which may have been bound for Europe or an American market was intercepted by this gringo coffee junkie. I’m enjoying a cup of it right now. I don’t know how Nescafe became so popular in Latin America with such good java growing in many South American countries.
It was around lunchtime when we arrived in Jardín and we were quite hungry. One of the guys in the group who’d been to Jardín before knew of a popular restaurant at a trout farm five km just outside the city called La Trucheria. We headed up the canyon road and stopped briefly at a lovely roadside home that had a for sale sign on the fence. The owner was working in the garden and we stopped to ask him what he was asking for his ranch. He wanted 150 million pesos (about US$60k) for his four hectares that came with a large home, a couple out buildings and a large pond. A steal by US standards and perhaps a good buy for Colombian ones. A few minutes later we were at the trout farm enjoying a tasty lunch. If anyone does visit this place ask the waitresses to have one of the workers net a fish for you and prepare it or you can use one of their bamboo fishing poles and try your luck. Nothing beats fresh trout that was in the water a few minutes before that is now staring up at you on your dinner plate.
We decided to eat first before finding a place to stay, a little mistake that we came to regret later. It wasn’t a holiday weekend and Jardín didn’t seem very crowded but later found out that most of the small hotels in town were full and none had four available rooms we were seeking. As a result half of our group stayed at the largest hotel in town called the Hacienda Balandu ($40/night that included three meals, telephone 845 5561) and the rest of us stayed in town at the Hotel Barajas, a smaller yet much more appealing and very inexpensive option ($10/night, 845 6393). Hotel Jardín (845 5886) and Hotel Guayacanes (845 5543) would be good choices as well. There are also numerous “famihoteles” available in town which I think are Colombia’s version of a B&B. More information can be obtained from the tourist cooperative at tujardin@terra.com.co I’d advise to secure lodging in advance of your intended stay in this lovely city.
Jardín’s population is only 17,500 but is a popular destination spot for Colombian tourists especially on a holiday weekend. It is very clean with cobble stoned streets and many beautiful flowers and trees in bloom everywhere you looked. Jardín aptly lives up to its name as the whole city seemed to be one large garden. I felt safe the entire time I was there and we met some very hospitable and friendly people. Not too long ago the drive to Jardín was considered unsafe due to the FARC but the government has a strong military presence on the road into town as well within the city limits.
Just like there was in Andes, Jardín has a parque principal with a large church called the Basilica Menor Imaculada Conception. Its two twin spires can be seen for miles away. Another attraction is a small rickety cable car that traverses the river and provides an excellent view of the valley and surrounding mountains. From the upper vantage point of the cable car I saw one paraglider soaring with the many buzzards flying in the sky. I’m not sure if it was just one individual having fun or if there is a commercial venture offering this.
One of the local guys we met said there would not be any need to bring a lady to Jardín with you as they were easy to meet from the many visitors on weekends, mostly from Medellin. I think it would probably be best to bring a lady friend with you rather than try to find a lady there in town. It’s a great little place to relax, fish, horseback ride, take photos, hike, camp and get to know more the wonderful Colombian culture and people. If someone wanted to invest in a business or live in a small town in Colombia I think Jardín would be a great choice as there were opportunities to be had in many tourism areas, property is very reasonably priced, and it is such a beautiful little city nestled in the Antioquian mountains. It really is an enchanting place.
For those interested in looking at the region, here is a link to my photos.
http://community.webshots.com/album/263750224zABbOO
