Prologue:
TO GO OR NOT TO GO -- THAT IS THE QUESTION
This is a report of my trip to Cali, just before buying my house there. I usually have an inkling on where I'd like to visit many months before I actually have the available time to travel. My travels had been set on Cali for some time, an area encompassing Central and South America and much of the Caribbean. I have grown very enamored with Latin culture: the music, the dancing, the food, and, especially, the chicas. I was looking for a new place to visit and despite its overwhelmingly negative image in the popular press I had heard some pretty interesting things about Colombia.
As I investigated this country as a possible novia hunting destination, two disparate sets of opinions began to emerge. On one side were the proponents of caution represented by my family, friends and government authorities. On the other side were the risk-takers and thrill-seekers represented primarily by those daring men who had already blazed a path to this dangerous yet intriguing land.
As I contemplated the wisdom of making such a journey the two sets of voices engaged in battle for control of my thought processes. One side was speaking to me as follows:
"The Department of State warns U.S. citizens against travel to Colombia. Violence by narcotraffickers, guerrillas, paramilitary groups and other criminal elements continues to affect all parts of the country. Citizens of the United States and other countries have been the victims of recent threats, kidnappings, domestic airline hijackings and murders. Acts of violence against foreigners have occurred in all regions of Colombia, both urban and rural. There is a greater risk of being kidnapped in Colombia than in any other country in the world. In some cases, the victims have been murdered. Since it is U.S. policy not to pay ransom or make other concessions to terrorists, the U.S. government's ability to assist kidnapped U.S. citizens is limited." [US Dept of State. June 10, 1999]
"'Es complicado' Colombians say. That's shorthand for the killings, kidnappings, and robberies, the unemployment, and inflation that threaten to crush the fervent spirit of this lush South American republic. An explosive desperation grips Colombians today. Political violence has claimed some 35,000 Colombians in the past decade and displaced one million and a half more. This is a dirty war, which inspires few allegiances but leaves many bodies. Leftist guerrillas and rightist paramilitaries kill suspected enemies with impunity. And then there are the freelancers, hired killers, whose services start at $200US a victim."
Pretty powerful stuff that certainly gives one reason for pause. The other side offered voices that were soothing and calming, chanting their siren songs beckoning me toward barely describable pleasures in a foreign land:
Ø "Cali, I believe, is the easiest place to pick up women. They are plentiful and lots are gorgeous. I was blown away! It has the highest concentration of available babes I've ever seen. "I think that they have a law in Cali, Colombia that a woman must be born bautiful, if not, she has 6 months to get beautiful, otherwise, she is sent back for repairs. If they fail to do this, they must become a nun or something.
The two sides grappled for my attention and drew me into a classic Freudian ego vs. id dilemma. My ego was advising "be cautious, be careful, don't take a chance," while my id was screaming "go for it, go now, seek immediate gratification."
Viewed slightly differently there was an angel sitting on one shoulder warning me of "kidnapping risk, violent death, explosive national desperation," and a devil sitting on the other shoulder offering "gorgeous babes, legally mandated beautiful women, and party central." Over time the debate grew increasingly one-sided as the devil's whispers became a deafening crescendo. My mind was overtaken by a single thought that rattled around in my head like a never-ending echo: "much babes to choose from Much women to Choose From MUCH BABES TO CHOOSE FROM!" There was no longer a debate. I slapped away the angel, shook hands with the devil, and made a definite decision. For better or worse, I was going to Cali, Colombia.
****** The beginning - Planning my trip ***********
Before I start to relate some of my experiences let me make a few prefatory comments. My usual style of writing is more on the storytelling to give readers the flavor of what I was thinking and feeling as I experienced Colombia. I hope to also include the "news you can use" material which really is the most beneficial information for someone planning a trip. The narrative style of writing tends to be longer and more time-consuming and I don't know how long I'll persist with this method. I guess until either I become bored, I sense the membership getting bored, or I just plain run out of time to devote to this project.
Prices will be quoted here in the currency in which I paid. On a few occasions that was U.S. dollars but for the most part it was Colombian Pesos which I'll abbreviate as CPs. The exchange rates I received were 1,650 CPs to 1 US$ at Miami Airport (this sucks big time). The rest of my conversions were done in Colombia at ATMs. The conversion rates ranged from 2,800 to 2,900 CPs to the dollar. In the final analysis my weighted average conversion rate was 2,850 CPs to the dollar.
ENROUTE TO CALI
The good part about not getting a flight to Barranquilla is that I actually got a decent amount of sleep the night before my departure. Going to Barranquilla required a dawn flight which would have necessitated a 3 a.m. departure from my home.
The Cali flight left at midday so a full night's sleep was on the agenda. I don't know about you guys but I find I always have to pay a price before leaving for a chica hunting trip. My trips tend to be 8 to 11 days in duration (a workweek sandwiched by 2 weekends plus maybe another day or two). To get my personal and business affairs in order I usually spend 4 to 5 nights burning the midnight oil just prior to my departure day. The result is I leave already quite tired when my objective was to depart as rested, relaxed and ready as possible for the activities that are awaiting me.
I got to Miami airport about 25 minutes late but my flight to Cali was pushed back about 30 minutes so I had enough time for the two pieces of business I wished to transact in Miami.
First, I headed for the Avianca counter to pick up and pay for my ticket from Cali to Cartagena which I had reserved the day before. This was done late Friday after Miami Airport and all other East Coast offices were closed. I had called the Los Angeles office to procure the reservation. If you don't know in advance the available rates and the corresponding rules and regulations there is a very good chance you will not be offered the lowest rate. I knew of the Class Q 3-day advance purchase rate so the ticket I purchased for a Cali-Bogota-Cartagena route was a reasonably priced US$109. My revised itinerary put together the day before eliminated the Cartagena-Bogota-Cali return so the change saved me a like amount of US$109. [I'll try to provide some separate notes later on ideas for saving money on domestic ticket purchases in Colombia.]
My second stop was at a money exchange booth. I wasn't confident one would be open on Saturday night in Cali so I wanted to arrive with some Colombian money in my possession. The conversion rate was a lousy 1650 Colombian pesos [CPs] to one US dollar plus a $2 fixed fee regardless of transaction size. This I knew was a horrendous rate, but I had no time to check for a better one so I converted a minimal amount of US$100.
I had good seating fortune on the way to Cali as I was given the first row coach aisle seat which had no seat or bulkhead wall in front of me. My legs were fully extended in front of me the whole trip. Sitting next to me was a fascinating and attractive Colombiana about 36-38 years of age. She spoke English well, so we talked nonstop for 3+ hours. She was well-to-do and obviously not a typical Colombiana.
She split time living among 3 cities: Cali, Miami and Paris, but Cali was her real home. Two of her three brothers had been kidnapped by rebel guerrillas and were currently being held for ransom. One had been captive for 2 months, the other for 8 months. One was taken directly from his office in the factory he ran by 15 armed men. He was driven away in his own car. The other was intercepted after leaving his home. Before the first one was captured a "message" had been sent. The two dogs that lived in and guarded the factory were shot dead and left in front of the brother's office. I didn't quite get the purpose of the message (perhaps a request to make some payments?), but that surely would have gotten my attention.
This woman (name withheld) spends no more than 10-12 days in Cali at a time because she fears that if she is there too long her movements will be tracked and she, too, will become a kidnap victim. She and her husband own another house on a lake in the hills 20 minutes from Cali and they can NEVER go there due to the threat of guerrilla activity in the area.
Security issues in and around Cali should not be easily dismissed. During my brief stay there concern over security was a theme that resurfaced several times.
ARRIVAL IN CALI
I was one of the first ones off the plane so I went through immigration relatively quickly and easily. After passing through immigration I picked up my tax exemption form at a booth immediately to the right. This is important because if you don't have it when you leave the country you will pay double the US$27 airport exit tax that you pay if you do have it. Baggage unloading was slow so I lost some time there. All told it took about 45 minutes from exiting the plane to catching a taxi.
I was supposed to be picked up by someone from the Hotel Windsor Plaza [HWP] staff, but nowhere did I spot a HWP van or car or a sign with my name on it. So after the obligatory 10-minute search and wait I headed out to the HWP on my own. 20,000 CPs and 30 minutes later I was warmly greeted by the bellman, Gustavo, and the night manager, Alex, who tell me they will do ANYTHING to make my stay more comfortable. I like the sound of that and file that information away for possible future use.
The HWP is a good choice when in Cali. It meets the criteria most often employed by Americans when looking for accommodations: very friendly, clean and comfortable, good location close to some action and in that very affordable price range [US$35-US$50] of similar hotels in other locations. It is located 1 block off Avenida Sexta, the main restaurant, shopping, club and discoteca center of Cali. In one direction you can walk to Chipichape Mall, a large, modern shopping complex with possibilities for encountering Calenas. In the other direction your walk will connect you with Paseo Bolivar where you can cross the Rio Cali and visit the few sites of note in the old section of the city.
Be sure to establish your room rate ahead of time with the hotel. They can be contacted by e-mail at windsor@colombianet.net. I was originally quoted a $US50 rate but I responded back that a friend of mine had received a rate of 100,000 CPs (about US$35) and I was granted that rate.
In Colombia remember to always carefully check your bill. I checked my hotel bill the night before my departure and they had my rate listed as 110,000 CPs. There was no problem correcting it, but the onus is on you to look for and point out any errors. The manager told me it would be 30,000 CPs the first night I brought in company. I pointed out that Gustavo quoted 20,000 and that another friend of mine had paid that amount, and again there was no problem in making the adjustment. In fact, on my second night Alex waived the guest fee charge altogether.
SOME IMPRESSIONS OF CALI
Cali will forever be imprinted on my mind for its impressive hills juxtaposed side by side to form deep valleys. Yes, Cali is located in the Cauca Valley nesting between 2 mountain ranges, the Western and Central Cordilleras. But that's not what I'm talking about. What I am referring to is cleavage (see somepictures posted on Cali discussions ) and you will be inundated with the amount you will see, most all of major league caliber. Colombian women as a general rule are well endowed and they are not inhibited to dress in a manner which shows off their assets to best advantage. Based on my travels to date I am prepared to declare Cali, Colombia the "Cleavage Capital of the World."
Cali has a few sites worth visiting, but these can be seen in the space of a single day. It in no way compares with major Latin cities such as Rio, Havana or even Quito from a cultural interest or sightseeing point of view. If security wasn't a concern Cali could be used as a base for visiting some really interesting archaeological sites, national parks and smaller towns of note. Security is a major concern, however, and hence you are essentially limited to what is contained in the safe zones within the city.
Consequently there is one, and only one, reason to go to Cali and that is for its women. During my limited stay I spent time with two Calenas and eyeballed many more and it's clear there are a lot of very attractive women in that city.
***Tomorrow...some very specific detail on one of Cali's better venues and the chica that I met there.***
