COLOMBIA
The information below is provided by Lonely Planet readers and is not verified by Lonely Planet. For the official lowdown, contact your nearest embassy or check out our travel advice.
Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings
Travel Tips
Moving About
Scams and Warnings
Gems, Highlights & Attractions
Visas, Embassies and Border Crossings
When in Cucuta me and the girl caught a taxi for a quick one hour trip to San Antonio and then back to Colombia, just to visit around. But at the border between Cucuta and San Antonio a corrupt Venezuelan officer checking me (passport and clothing) asked me how much money I had with me. I said a few US dollars and a few Colombian pesos. He said that there had been a lot of "money laundering activities" around. If I wanted to avoid checkpoints and wasting time I could "cooperate". So I gave him $30USD. That made him happy and smiling at me he said, "Ok, you can go and have a nice trip in San Antonio"!
Back on the border again, on the Colombian side, I noticed a big billboard advertising innoculations for the measles due to a recent outbreak.
Michelangelo Mazzeo, Italy (Oct 02)
Since July 20th there are a lot more countries that need visa for Colombia such as Slovenia, Poland, Croatia etc.- countries that didn't need visa before. It costs $40US and takes up to eight days to get arranged. You need to photocopy all pages in your passport, credit cards or travelers cheques and three photos. You also need to write a letter to the consulate regarding how you are planning to travel in Colombia, which cities you are planning to visit and purpose of travel.
Sabina Pensek, Slovenia (Nov 01)
One word of warning: The Tres Fronteras area is mostly unregulated for crossing between Brasil, Peru and Colombia. At the airport going out of Leticia the DAS will ask where you have been. If you didn't get a Brazilian visa, don't admit to going further than Tabatinga. Furthermore, there is a big crackdown on exportation of plant and animal products. We saw one person go to jail trying to get a monkey on the plane. By the same token, if you have uncarved wood, any living or dead animals do not try to board the plane with them. You will be arrested.
Jennifer Anders, USA (Jul 01)
Travel Tips
Telephone numbers in Manizales have changed to 7 digit numbers - you just double the first number of an old number to get the new one - the same is about to happen in other places too, so it could be good to give the general advise 
Grau Rolf, Colombia (Aug 01)
It is not the safest country in the world. But with some forward thinking and a common sense approach, I think it is an easy country to visit, especially as an independent traveler. I contacted the Colombian Embassy in London prior to my visit and gave them my proposed route. Their advice, basically about all travel in the country was that flying between places is the safest method of travel. Avoid travel at night, only travel on main roads and use main bus companies. They also suggested contacting the local police at each town visited and to ask about security on the road etc. The Foreign and Commonwealth website also has regularly updated advice for travelers. I did as I was advised, was not paranoid...and had no problems. I was only stopped at an army roadblock once for a cursory search with no problems and all police I spoke with were polite and approachable, especially the Tourist Police.
Kenneth Mackie, (Jan 01)
I saw that in your web pages you have some links to newspapers, could be good to include the following:
The second most important newspaper, next to El Tiempo, is El Pais and you can find it at: www.elpais-cali.com
Rolf Grau, Colombia (Jan 01)
I recently went on a short term missions trip to Cartagena and absolutely fell in love with Colombia and its people. Although I did a few of the touristy things, I'd highly recommend checking out the village of Bocachica on the Isla Del Tierrabomba which is just a few miles off the coast. Very poor but beautiful people. You could probably get someone to take you out fishing in an old wooden boat. You'll feel like the Old man and the Sea. I'm definitely going back.
J. Redd (May 00)
I've been living in Medellin, Colombia for almost 2 years now and I just thought I'd add some information that I think would be helpful to others.
The countryside around Medellin is very dangerous right now. There have been many roadblocks where the guerillas have been kidnapping people after checking out the passports or cedulas.I think that during the day things are not too bad, and the road to the airport is safe enough, but I would urge anyone traveling in this area to be very cautious. Actually -my employer has warned all of us that now is not a good time to travel anywhere by bus. Try to fly whenever possible. North Americans are not generally targeted; however, I think it is important to recognize that generally, you stick out like a sore thumb and sometimes being visible does not work to your advantage.
I think that if you exercise caution and pay attention to the local media (to avoid trouble regions-things can change quickly), you can travel safely and enjoy your visit. Colombians are very friendly and I have always found them very helpful when I ask about where it is safe to travel.
JL Moon (April 00)
I just came back from Colombia. (Bogota and Cartagena) April 2000 and had a blast. While it is true that the country is going through political turmoil, people in the big cities have nothing to worry about. Even though it is not Buenos Aires, Bogota has great nightlife and I was surprised to find bars and clubs that could easily match places in NY or London, There is one place called San Angel, extremely fun on a very trendy area called: 93rd street filled with cafes, restaurants and clubs. people were very nice and friendly, use caution while taking cabs at night and try to avoid the centro (downtown) area at night. Cartagena is gorgeous and a stroll through the old city in carriage is one of the most romantic things I have ever done...I was alone though, but nonetheless it was great...There's an island of the coast called BARU....great snorkeling and great beaches...pristine water and white sand...
Sebastian (May 00)
There is now a left luggage office at Bogota airport, located in the domestic arrivals terminal. Bags are placed in lockers, and you are given the key. The office is staffed 24 hours. Anyone travelling to Colombia should make sure their bags are padlocked (three of my colleagues had items taken from their luggage).
Joanna Depledge, UK (Jan 00)
Moving About
There has been added to all flights within Colombia, an extra $8500 Insurance Tax. Ours was covered on our tickets, but sometimes it is not. You will be told to pay if it is not been paid already.
Flying is the real option to travel within Colombia at the moment, because of FARC, ELN and the bandits. It's a shame, because Colombia is such a beautiful country, but there are some places where you can not go to and others that are becomming far too dangerous to go to. I'm hoping peace will come to Colombia one day, but I can not see it....
Dave Fuller, (Nov 01)
I was recently in Panama (April,2000) and was looking for a way to Colombia that didn't require paying a $280 round trip commercial air fare to Bogota.
One reliable and legal route that I found was this. Fly to Puerto Obaldia, Panama and then proceed by boat to Turbo, Colombia.
Aviatur based at the downtown Panama City Albrook Airport charges $46.20 for the trip to Puerto Obaldia. The flight is by a small signal engine Cessna that is equipped with instruments. The plane flies along the Caribbean coast. Several quick stops are made at Kuna indigenous settlements located in the San Blas Island chain. The view of the Darien jungle, the Caribbean and these just-off-the coast island settlements makes the trip a tourist treat.
Puerto Obaldia is a small village that has been placed under the control of the Panamanian National Police because of border violence. Visitors must sign in at the military headquarters and sign out when leaving. An immigration officer will stamp your passport with an exit visa and the Colombian consulate located nearby will provide a temporary entrance visa for Colombia which requires that visitors report to Colombian immigration within 30 days. The consulate did not ask for any round trip tickets or money minimums.
Small outboard motor boats (no life jackets) offer trips to Capurgana on the nearby Colombian side. With the arrival of other travelers I was able to obtain a trip for $15. The price for one person traveling alone was $40. The swells are large and my boat managed to leave without oil in its engine. We sputtered to just off Capurgana and paddled the final stretch to the dock. Colombian soldiers greet arrivals and check luggage but don«t seem to mind visitors at the occupied coastal resort.
Tickets to Turbo cost $17. The passage is by a larger 35-seat fiberglass boat with life jackets provided. These radio-equipped boats leave most days around noon and tickets are available at the boat dock restaurant. The boat stops just outside Turbo for a military search of passengers. Once reaching Turbo travelers can make bus connections to Medellin. The cost is $14 for the 10-hour bus ride. Travelers should carry sufficient cash. No one seems to have heard of travelers checks. Collect phone calls were also unavailable. ATMs, however, are available in Turbo. I hope this information will help future Panama to Colombia travelers. The first boat problem aside it was a great bargain.
Ronald J. Morgan (Jan 00)
To get to the Tayrona National Park from Santa Marta it is quite helpful to catch the Chiva from the Hotel Miramar, which departs daily around am. The costs of COP 15.000 includes return trip any day (daily around 2pm), entry fee to National Park. The traveller's bags will however be carefully checked by local police at the entrance to the walk to Arrecifies.
Nicolai Oswald, UK (Jan 00)
Scams and Warnings
Of course you have read that Bogotá is dangerous. So did I, and I was also arrogant enough to believe that I am an experienced and careful backpacker, who knows what to do. I thought I would deal with the dangers of this city as I have done during the last 12 years of regular backpacking, with the experience of four previous trips to Latin America and living half a year in Guatemala City (not the safest place on earth). Please note that Bogotá, Colombia for that matter, is a different story. Of course bad luck can hit you anywhere but the risk of something happening to you is really different in Colombia. Common sense like "beware of pick pocketing in busy areas, watch your bags like a hawk in terminals, don't wander off in quiet areas by yourself, keep a low profile or don't go out after dark" etc. etc. is not enough! Anywhere in the centre of Bogotá you can be robbed in broad daylight. I was walking in a nice sunny street just a block from Avenida Jiminez. It was a national holiday so many people (families, couples) were walking around. People were standing and sitting in front of their houses and there were even two police officers 30 meters away. However, when they were called they refused to come while I was being stripped by eight boys with two knifes in my face. The robbers even take their time to check your underwear as nobody around them bothers them anyway. This story does not stand by itself. The police station on the Avenida Jiminez on the way to Monte Serrate records about 150 robberies a day; many Colombians and about every foreigner that dares to stroll around the neighbourhood. What do you think of the nice square in front of the gold museum...yes people were violently robbed and beaten up there just a few weeks ago. We counted 4 violent robberies in these last 3 weeks in this hostel alone. Some things in Colombia are really great and some people are wonderful, as many travellers will testify, but yes, it is getting really bad. Common smart travellers sense is not enough for Bogotá. Please believe that you are taking a different risk than most other countries. I am far from the only one that was surprised by the vicious criminals of this place. Nearly half of the people that I spoke to during my month in Colombia had been robbed. Nobody got hurt...but I was amazed.
Rob Minee, (Jan 01)
The problem for a traveler (and Colombians) that is particular to Colombia is frequent problems with bus travel. Dangers on the street aren't really any different in Colombia than in neighboring countries. There are 2 distinctly different incidents on buses a traveler may fall prey to and I feel that Lonely Planet does not clearly enough make this distinction. You tend to categorize bus incidents as Guerilla related when it could even be that travelers have mistakenly assumed bus incidents to be the work of Guerillas and reported it as such, whereas it may just as likely been ´banditos´.
Guerilla incidents are "security checks". Unless you've chosen a bus full of the rich and famous, nothing is likely to develop. Guerillas also often give bus companies very strict guidelines as to when they can be on the road (e.g. between Popayan/Pasto/Ipiales--NOT AFTER 6 P.M.) This is when you get bus burnings. Passengers aren't harmed and theft is very unlikely. Sometimes bus burnings are triggered when a company removes FARC/ELN graffiti from their buses. The Guerillas keep track of which buses have been painted.
The other incidents involve ´banditos´. This is when you're likely to be left standing on the roadside with nothing but your shorts. These are the serious incidents- dangerous. They operate day and night. During the day it is much more likely to occur in the afternoon and particularly on big, better class buses. Typically, they board your bus, unbeknownst to anyone and in a predetermined remote areas make their move-forcing the bus at gunpoint to stop and pick up more ´banditos´ then continue on to a side road if necessary. The military and National Police are not in Guerilla held rural areas it is too dangerous for them. Collectivos are safer than big buses. Night travel is out of the question. The early morning is the best.
Niels Hollum, Canada (Dec 00)
Gems, Highlights, & Attractions
I can say that Colombia is world famous for being one of the most dangerous countries in the world but honestly if you have common sense you can have a great time. Most of the people are very friendly but you will never hear that on CNN and that is because Colombia has a bad publicity agent but the small city of Cartagena in the Caribbean Sea is one of the most beautiful in the world. It's an old city with a big colonial fortress. But the most beautiful thing in this city, and its main tourist attraction is its crystal sea. It doesn't matter how deep the bottom of the sea is you can see it and appreciate it. It's also a very cheap thing to do because you are going to see fishermen swimming with out any equipment and many people just having fun. Back on the mainland you can see kids playing soccer without shoes and without having to pay a fee and if soccer rules the "playa" baseball is in every street.
Mauricio Lanos, Colombia (Jan 02)
Bogota: The Museo De Antioquia has been moved to a new building just North of Parque Berrio. It's really amazing, most of what is inside is of Fernando Botero and some of his own collections. Open Monday, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays from 9.30am - 5pm Saturday, Sundays and Holidays 10am - 4pm. It is CLOSED every Tuesday. The cost is $5000. Students pay $3000.
Dave Fuller, (Nov 01)
An event that surprised me a lot when I first came here to Cali is that every Sunday between 9am and 10pm they have something called 'la ciclovida' All streets through the whole city are closed down to traffic and the city turns into a people's fiesta. All kinds of people, young and old, go out to the streets walking, rollerblading or riding their bicycles through the city. Along the streets they have drink and food stands, music is played everywhere and at some streets you even have free aerobics classes. Best of all, this happens every Sunday and it's a lot of fun every time.
Rania Salameh (June 01)
There are some other highlights that should be definitely included in the next edition of the book. The Ciclovia is an event that takes place every Sunday (and holidays) in Bogota, in which many of the main roads are closed and hundreds of cyclists take over. It's an amazing way to see the city, especially if you are biking from the north part to the Plaza de Bolivar which takes about an hour each way. Bogota's mayor, Enrique Peñalosa, made many recent improvements, such as cycling routes, that permitted me to see much of the city by bicycle.
Benjamin Guezentsvey, USA (Jan 01)
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For more news, views and the odd bit of gibberish, drop in on the soc.culture.colombia, soc.culture.latin-america and rec.travel.latin-america newsgroups.
For detailed up-to-date travel information check out Lonely Planet's Destination Colombia.
