Life in Ukraine (Part 1)

[John K]

This will kick off a small series of stories for you from my latest trip to Ukraine.  I was over in Ukraine for about 2 1/2 weeks and returned home just a couple of days ago.  I'm going to try and write this all down while it's still fresh.

We booked our flight from our hometown in Iowa, through Chicago, through Warsaw, to Kiev directly from LOT Polish airlines.  Had our travel agent got off her butt and booked it herself we would have saved money, but I ended up losing patience after a few weeks of being put off and booked it myself.  Unfortunately, delaying cost me at least $500 in the ticket price.  Rule to remember:  book your tickets about 3 months out for the best price.

We arrived in Borispil airport in the late morning.  Marina's mother and grandmother were waiting for us, as they always do when we fly over.  We picked up some money from an ATM and took a taxi to the train station.  There, we waited 4 or 5 hours for the train to arrive to take us to Sevastopol.

Travelling by train can be a hassle if you haven't done it before.  You should have plenty of food and drink with you, if you are going on a long ride, like we were.  While you can purchase snacks and drinks on the train, it is simply more convenient to pick and choose what foods and drinks you want before you board.  Especially if you like noncarbonated water.  The sidewalk vendors at the various train stations don't carry it, so if you are a water drinker get enough for what you need before you ever get on the train.

We had our family purchase a cabin on the train going to Sevastopol.  It sleeps 4 people, with 2 sets of upper and lower bunks.  If you are just travelling with one other person, you can get a cabin that sleeps two, but it's more expensive.  Cabins are pretty popular, so if you want to take one, order it well in advance.

The windows are locked shut with a triangular socket key.  If someone brough along a small metric socket set, they might be able to unlock it, but the car manager might not appreciate it.  We talked our car mistress into unlocking the window just outside our cabin.  It really helped cool the car down.  The downside was that the curtain on the window was a hazard to anyone walking down the narrow aisle.  I had some velcro cable ties in my bag, so I took the offending curtain, twisted it 3 times and velcroed it to the hand rail.  We had no problems after that.

While the cabins have mattresses for the bunks, they aren't exactly the cleanest things to sleep on.  What you do is rent a set of sheets/pillocases/towels from the car manager.  (S)he will pick them up at the end of your trip.

While I have heard of the headaches of broken cabin latches on Russian trains, the 4 different times I have travelled in Ukrainian trains, I never had this problem.  The doors also have an inside door stop that you can flip out to keep the door from opening more than a couple of centimeters.  Still, if you're paranoid, pack 6-8 feet of clothesline in an outside pocket of your suitcase and tie the door shut at night.

Bathrooms are pretty nasty, especially the longer you ride the train. It would behoove you to pack your own toilet paper and wet naps for cleaning up afterwards.  While the toilets are supposed to have water and paper available, it isn't always the case, especially towards the end of a long trip.  Also, you can only use the toilets while the train is moving.  Using them while sitting at a train station is prohibited as the toilet dumps the detrius directly on the ground.  Not too hygienic, but I saw the same thing in Germany about a decade ago.

Trains in Ukraine have a dining car, but I've never used them, so I can't tell you anything about them.  The car manager will usually have hot coffee and tea available to purchase, along with some sort of wafer cookies.  Also, various vendors will wander down the aisles attempting to sell you pastries, wines, sodas, ice cream, reading materials, etc.  I always let Marina and her family deal with them.

I purchased Marina a cell phone this year in Sevastopol and on the way back it worked for most of the trip.  The only area she had problems was near Sevastopol, due to the Crimean mountains.  Otherwise, she was able to talk to her mother most other places.

I had a simple pair of house slippers that I wore in the plane coming over and they were comfortable for the train as well.  As nasty as the bathrooms are, you definately don't want to go in barefoot or in just your socks.  I wore a simple sports suit, which looked nice but was comfortable for travelling.  I noticed various other people wearing the same thing, so I wasn't out of place.

As far as sleep goes, it can be done, but it isn't terribly comfortable.  I'm a little over 6' tall, and the bunks just barely fit me.  Anyone much taller is going to have a problem.  Also, due to the constant erratic movement of the train, you can't get a good night's sleep.  Still, you can get an hour here, thirty minutes there, and achieve an adequate nights sleep.

One last thing.  Be sure to pack some reading materials or playing cards or it's going to be a loooooong trip.  If you're packing cards, take the time to learn a game called "Durak" or "Stupid" beforehand.  It appears to be the one card game practically every Ukrainian plays.

More later.

[cherokee]

... in response to Life in Ukraine (Part 1), posted by John K on May 14, 2004

Hi John,
We are leaving the 25th for one month. I'm interested in hearing more of your recent experience since i haven't been there in 2 years. no customs problems? my wife is nervous about this. Also, we'll be taking the express train which is supposed to be 5hrs from kiev to dnepropetrovsk. Have you tried this mode of train travel?
thanks in advance!

[John K]

... in response to Re: Life in Ukraine (Part 1), posted by cherokee on May 17, 2004

Unless you are packing an exhorbitant amount of money, jewelry or expensive goods for sale, you don't even need to fill out a customs declaration anymore.  We came in with a laptop computer, digital camcorder, and a relatively expensive camera and they didn't even bat an eyelash.  You just x-ray your suitcases when you arrive and when you leave.

On the way out, I had a little bit of a concern.  One thing that they are concerned about is precious bank metals, like gold, silver, platinum bullion and coinage.  In my suitcase was a complete set of USSR ruble and 5 ruble coins.  My wife's grandmother worked in a bank before the breakup of the Soviet Union, and bought the coins with her hard earned money, often spending 80 paper rubles to get a 1 ruble coin, because they were so rare.  One can imagine what a complete set of 127(?) good to excellent condition 1 to 5 ruble coins might go for if I find the right collector...

Going through airport security, I had to xray the suitcase.  Of course, the large bag of coins was immediately noted.  The customs agent asked me to pull out the coins.  I pulled them out of the suitcase and said that I was collecting some coins while I was over here.  As the coins weren't precious metal, he quickly lost interest in them.  Had he taken a closer look and done some thinking about it, I might have ended up in trouble.

Whenever I take the train, it is to Sevastopol and back to Kiev, so I'm afraid I don't have any idea what your express train is like.  Talking with Marina this year, we've decided to catch the plane from Kiev to Simferopol next year and then catch the bus or train from there.  The overnight train rides are cheaper, but they waste time and are harder on us physically.  The only trick will be running from Borispol to the domestic airline terminal across town and making the flight on time...

[MarkInTx]

... in response to Customs is much easier this year, posted by John K on May 18, 2004

We were talking to a woman who is from Kiev and returned recently. She is here on a work Visa, and goes home every year for a visit.

She was detained for five hours in customs -- and she had a crying baby.

The searched all of her bags. Probably trying to force her to bribe them... don't know.

I was surprised since I have NEVER had ANY problems with Ukraine customs.

Viktoriya told me: "That's because you have a US Passport. If you are treated badly, you can complain to your embassy. Who can we complain to?"

That's one of the most backwards things I have ever heard, but all Russian/Ukrainian women who were at the party instantly agreed with her.

American going through customs -- no problem.

Native Ukrainian -- Look out...

FWIW

YMMV, of course (and I hope it does!)

[keithandkatya]

... in response to Re: Life in Ukraine (Part 1), posted by cherokee on May 17, 2004

and Ive got a few drops of cherokee blood in me...wow twilight zone time eh?? lol

question-- where is a good place to buy a convertor I will need for my video camera...would radio shack have it??  what will I need in Ukraine?? thanks,

Keith

[cherokee]

... in response to interesting cherokee-Im leaving the same..., posted by keithandkatya on May 17, 2004

that is weird, plus we both live in FL!
we fly into prague then arrive in kiev the 26th around 2:30, any chance you'll be on that flight?
We bought our converter in a russian store in cleveland a couple years back. And we left it in Ukraine at the in-laws, that way we don't have to lug it back and forth. Plus i gave them my playstation so they needed the converter for that.
I've seen them at radio shack though....

[Zoidberg]

... in response to Re: interesting cherokee-Im leaving the ..., posted by cherokee on May 18, 2004

Hey everyone... we should have a party... anyway, Cherokee I just wrote you email before reading everything so you are not on my flights. I'll be in Kiev about 11 am on the 26th and our plans are to stay overnight one night and then head to Dnepro the next day on the overnight.

I'd like to take the express train to Dnepro but Sveta doesn't want to do it. She thinks it is not safe but I'd like to convince her it is.

Z

[cherokee]

... in response to I'm also leaving the same day going to K..., posted by Zoidberg on May 18, 2004

I think its 6 but i'll find out 4 sure. Some of our Ukrainian friends took it to dnepr and said it was no problemo, like a bus but faster.
It would be cool to meet and put names with faces and do a couple nazdarovyas

[Zoidberg]

... in response to yeah we're taking the 6 oclock express, posted by cherokee on May 18, 2004

Thanks! I'd love to know when it gets to Dnepro and how much. Maybe I can convince her to go on it. Did you buy tickets already or will they be available the same day? I'd love to meet you and put a face to the name as well.

[cherokee]

... in response to Re: yeah we're taking the 6 oclock expre..., posted by Zoidberg on May 18, 2004

my wife "thinks" the tickets are around $20 and we'll arrive in Dnepr. approx. at 11 p.m. We are going to buy the tickets at the train station when we get there.

[keithandkatya]

... in response to Re: interesting cherokee-Im leaving the ..., posted by cherokee on May 18, 2004

hi cherokee-- no I dont fly from prague but I do get in kiev about the same time... so I might see ya in the airport in kiev or in customs...
keith

[John K]

... in response to interesting cherokee-Im leaving the same..., posted by keithandkatya on May 17, 2004

We bought one at a Walgreens Drugstore a year or two ago and it works great.  We chose a model that switched between 50 watt and 1500 watt.  You use the 50 watt for electronic devices, like the laptop computer and recharging the video camera or recharging an electric razor.  Use the 1500 watt setting when using a hair dryer or curling iron.

Remember that you are not only changing voltage; you are also changing the hertz cycle rate between 50 and 60 hertz. I can't remember which voltage has which rate, but look for an adapter that changes the frequency as well as the voltage.  Especially if you intend to hook up delicate electronics to it.

Radio Shack used to have some good adapters a couple of years ago, but I don't know if they still carry them in their stores.  A better bet would be looking at their website: www.radioshack.com.  Also, do a search on "overseas voltage converters" on any search engine and you will see numerous converters out there for sale.

Hope this helps...

[romachko]

... in response to Electricity converters, posted by John K on May 18, 2004

It is practically impossible to change electricity from 60 Hz to 50 Hz or vice versa. Japan has been in this difficulty for 100 years. The east half of Japan uses 60 Hz while the west half 50 Hz. Any electrical/electronic equipment, which depends of frequency like a motor, cannot be operated on 50Hz and 60 Hz in the same way. Japanese have not solved this problem even in this advanced day of technology.

Very fortunately, most electronic devices we are using are based on DC using a converter. When AC is converted to DC, frequency of AC is totally irrelevant. Technically speaking, "ripples" are less from 50 Hz than from 60 Hz but the difference can be detected only on an oscilloscope and it's very tiny. (Sorry I am an engineer.) In other words, in all practicality, it makes no difference.

Most department stores and some drug stores sell an electric kit for travellers, visiting a foreign country. You might visit Walmart, Walgreen, Kmart, Target, etc. The kit includes all sorts of plugs and a transformer to transform from 220VAC to 110VAC. Europe uses two slightly different sizes of similar plugs. China uses two totally different plugs. Luxenburg uses a lower voltage. So, there are some differences according to the countries. I have never experienced difficulty in Europe, including Turkey. The only possible problem is that the bulk of mass created by so many plugs and attachment may fall off the wall. You plug the adapter plug in the wall receptor, the transformer in the adapter, then the converter in the transformer. They don't hold the place on its own. You may need to buy an extention cord so that all of your gadgets are pluged in the deceptors at the end of the extention cord, layed flat on the floor or table.

Also, some transformer or local electrical system performs less than perfectly. When I used the voltage converter (AC/DC) in the trasnformer in Ukraine and Turkey, the voltage in the transformer sometimes dropped well below 110VAC. (I always carry a multimeter to fix minor electrical problems.) It still worked though.

[keithandkatya]

... in response to Electricity converters, posted by John K on May 18, 2004

THANKS TO BOTH OF YOU FOR YOUR HELP!!!

Keith

only one week away from the long trip in the sky!!!

[cherokee]

... in response to Electricity converters, posted by John K on May 18, 2004

is to have a surge protector between the converter and whatever you are plugging into it.