Thank you all for your feedback a few weeks ago. I’m still licking the wounds. At this time I’m only interested in sharing with you my experiences in Santa Fe de Antioquia.
Approximately three hours from Medellin is the very small town of Santa Fe de Antioquia, a treasure located in an area referred to as “Tierra Caliente” in Antioquia. Although we visited during the rainy winter season, the swimming pool water was warm due to the heat. The bus dropped us off on the main road and from there we took a “moto-taxi” to the hotel, essentially a motorized tricycle with just enough room in the back bench for my novia, her daughter and me. Based on a recommendation from the taxi driver, we were driven to a hotel across the main church and plaza. I was shown an upstairs room before deciding to stay there. The hotel was located in a colonial mansion with an open courtyard. Our room was located upstairs where hammocks were strung along one hallway and colorful potted plants decorated the entire area. We had HBO, a stocked mini-bar, a nice balcony overlooking the dark green tropical foliage and a good-size pool. However, no hot water…you’ll survive. I highly recommend the Hotel Caseron Plaza across from Plaza Mayor (phone: 853-2040, e-mail: halcaraz@edatel.net.co).
Apparently there are many upscale, Club Med like resorts within a few kilometers from the heart of town, but we decided to stay at a hotel located right across the main plaza. This way everything we might need for my novia’s daughter would be a few steps away. I also like being closer to the hustle and bustle of town, in this case almost unnoticeable. Apparently in small towns like Santa Fe de Antioquia, people rest on Monday and Tuesday as opposed to Saturday and Sunday. So our visit coincided with the low tourist season on Monday and Tuesday. Also, the town was without electricity for an entire day between 9 AM to 5 PM, so the beer also got warm around town.
Everything centered on the main plaza occupying the equivalent of a city block. The shady plaza was bordered by vendors selling an interesting assortment of traditional candies and inflatable swimming pool toys. Spending time in the pool will become a favorite activity for anyone visiting Santa Fe de Antioquia. It is hot! A friendly fruit vendor cut open an exotic fruit to give me a free sample. Unfortunately, it wasn’t clear to me that you don’t eat the large brown seeds, but only the fuzzy white stuff surrounding them. I gave everybody a good laugh. Restaurants, bars, grocery stores, pharmacies, banks and long-distance calling shops could be found walking along the perimeter of the main plaza. We often would sit at a bar across the plaza and drink a couple of “cervezas micheladas” with enough lemon and salt to make them taste like lemonade. We were often the only patrons at a restaurant and were treated like family. The food was outstanding. Although we originally planned on staying two nights, we stayed three. It was a very comfortable and relaxing place to be.
One day we took a moto-taxi tour to “El Puente del Occidente” spanning the Rio Cauca. On another occasion, we went horse back riding (20,000 pesos per person). We had so much fun crossing creeks and rivers on the horses. One thing I admire about my novia is that she grabs her 22-month old daughter, sits her on her horse and tells her to hold on. At one point, our horse guide is swinging a machete back and forth to open-up an overgrown horse trail. My girlfriend especially enjoyed visiting the production site of an old Colombian soap-opera she saw as a child, “La Casa de Dos Palmas.” Unfortunately, the two famous palms were blown-over years ago. Still, it was great to share her excitement as she remembered episodes of a childhood novela along with our guide.
Medellin has two bus terminals, one in the North and one in the South. Depending on your destination, you’ll want to go to a specific terminal. The bus to Santa Fe de Antioquia departs from the North terminal. The road from Medellin to Santa Fe is spectacular, but the amount of steep mountains, curves and narrow roads makes the trip rather slow. The road from Santa Fe de Antioquia could potentially lead you to the coastal town of Turbo, but past Santa Fe is “zona roja” or “red zone.” I would love to one day visit El Parque de las Orquideas in this area, but the risk is too great. Santa Fe de Antioquia has a strong and visible military presence and I felt safe. I strongly encourage you to spend a couple of days away from Medellin in this beautiful, romantic colonial town with your beautiful Paisa. You’ll discover another fascinating façade of this beautiful country we know as Colombia.
