Armenia, Quindio Part 1

[Seeker]

Sandra had been granted a two-week vacation and I wanted to make it very special for her. Staying in Medellin was not an option. Therefore, we decided to head out to Armenia, primarily to visit El Parque del Cafe. The 6 1/2 hour bus ride from Medellin to Armenia was beautiful, but extremely slow and perilous. The winding roads inspired at least one passenger to vomit. Rains had caused many mudslides and severe damage to parts of the road, especially along the Cauca River. We went past Manizales and Pereira and I can't say that based on what I saw, I felt any inclination of one day returning to explore these places. However, I understand that my perceptions were very limited.

The following experience deserves to be highlighted: We purchase bus tickets from Medellin to Armenia. We apparently arrive to Armenia at night after approximately 6 hours of travel, exhausted and looking forward to resting. Since we are the last passengers on the bus, I ask the bus driver in my fluent Spanish: Is this Armenia? -Yes, he responds. Sandra is behind me with her baby daughter asleep and once again asks: Is this Armenia? -Yes, the bus driver confirms that it is Armenia. The driver gets our luggage from below, I carry it across the terminal, we get on a taxi and ask the driver to take us to our hotel. The taxi driver looks confused. We both ask: Is this Armenia? -No, this is Pereira, he responds. What the #%^@! We pay the taxi to drive us back around the terminal to purchase tickets from Pereira to Armenia. We wait 30 minutes for the next bus to depart to Armenia. All in a day in Colombia! Sandra filed an official complaint the next day and we both spoke to the bus company manager in Armenia.

Arriving to Quindio was like arriving to a different country. I don't know if I was just delusional from the long trip, but the almost perfect roads made me wonder if I was back in the U.S. and having a bad dream that I had been unwillingly dumped in Pereira. Apparently, Quindio has a very strong economy and this wealth is reflected everywhere. Quindio is majestic and for those of you ready to travel a few hours outside of Cali, this is the place to visit. El Parque del Cafe is a destination in its own right. Both Sandra and I were very impressed and truly enjoyed this incredible park offering spectacular walks through coffee plantations, bamboo forests and banana plantations. The cable baskets will help you appreciate the beautiful surroundings and the impressive dimensions of this park. Disney-like mechanical rides are a large component of this park. However, a cultural show celebrating the music and dance of Colombia would be reason enough to attend this park. Any coffee lover will appreciate the fine coffee museum and the endless options of coffee products sold inside and outside the park.

To be continued...

[Gator]

... in response to Armenia, Quindio Part 1, posted by Seeker on Jun 4, 2005

being fluent in Spanish-and I don't mean the "Una mas cerveza" or "¿Hay alguien aqui hable inglés?" stage.

The other thing I did not understand is how did you get BACK to Pereira? As you posted, "We went past Manizales and Pereira and I can't say that based on what I saw, I felt any inclination of one day returning to explore these places."  

Agree that Pereira is not exactly the garden spot of Colombia but there are lots of good looking chicas. Manizales, on the other hand, I always thought was pretty nice.

The area around Armenia and Quindio is one that presents the "best"of Colombia.  The Zona del Café should be on everyone's list to visit.  From Cali take the bus.

BTW-which bus line did you book?/

[Seeker]

... in response to The Secret Is..., posted by Gator on Jun 4, 2005

I only went through Pereira once on my way to Armenia. I realize that my assessment of these cities was based on simply driving through them, very unfair, I know. I know Manizales is a gateway to el Nevado del Ruiz and for this reason alone, it would be worthwhile to visit. I would also agree with you that we're not really going to Colombia to visit beautiful cities, but rather the gorgeous women that live in them. Ideally, you meet a woman that lives in Medellin or Armenia and you have the best of both worlds.

I can't remember which bus company I took from Medellin to Armenia, but there were only a few options. I think our negative experience was relfective of the driver, as opposed to the bus company. The bus was modern and comfortable.

[valleydude]

... in response to Armenia, Quindio Part 1, posted by Seeker on Jun 4, 2005

Hey Seek!

I was actually happy that you did not post a live update. Sure I wanted it, but I would wonder about you. One update is always cool, but when I see more than that, it makes me wonder "What's Up?" when a guy has so much time to post while in South America if he isn't living there.

I've been hanging low, but you drew me out of hiding. I just wanted to say that it's cool you made it back safe and sound, as well as having a good trip. I hope things are cool with you and your girl. (I know you started thinking about the kid situation)

So did you pay Brandon's ransom while in Manizales? Haha!

Speaking of Carlos, I got some nice Carlos Vives tickets at the Amphitheatre.

Can I ask... Are you a Latino? I'm curious because you metioned fluent Spanish, and you traveled off the beaten path. Normally I would guess you are a Gringo, but since you are here in LA you could be a Latino???

I know you won't take offense to that, but for those wondering of the importance... I am a Gringo and I am willing to go off the beaten path. If I want to go, I will go, but I like to be prepared. With the possible dangers, I became curious if traveling off the beaten path was so smooth for Seeker becuase he blended in, or if his girl played a role? Maybe it is just plain safe where he went?

Back to hanging low... I'm sorting through some things,

V-Dude

[Seeker]

... in response to Your Posts and B.S., posted by valleydude on Jun 4, 2005

V-Dude,

Good to hear from you. Funny you should mention Brandon because I did think about this guy while passing through Manizales.

My suggestion would be to take a flight from Medellin to Manizales or Pereira. Our bus was stopped once by a military police checkpoint and all the passengers and their luggage were searched. As I got off the bus, I took my wallet out and left it with Sandra because I had just been to the ATM. I am Mexican-American and fluent in Spanish, but as soon as I open my mouth in Colombia, my "accent" identifies me as a foreigner.I think travelling with a Colombiana helped significantly. For example, Sandra was the only one allowed to stay on the bus because her daughter was asleep when they searched the bus. Also, when they opened my suitcase, it had a huge bag of diapers (daughter's, not mine ). I suppose this helped the police conclude that I wasn't a paramilitary.

I like travelling off the beaten path and am well aware of the potential risks involved. In Colombia, there is no question that speaking fluent Spanish makes everything that much easier for me. I think having a guidebook like Lonely Planet or Footprint with you goes a long way to being prepared.

V-Dude, I can relate to the need to just hang low sometimes. I've gone through some peaks and valleys in this process. I think we all go through this... take care of yourself.

[valleydude]

... in response to Re: Your Posts and B.S., posted by Seeker on Jun 4, 2005

Hey you don't have to make any excuses for wearing those diapers. Haha! I would have asked to borrow one going through a checkpoint. The first words from my mouth would be "Hey! Can I get a diaper from ya?"

Since you traveled all over and it sounded so smooth I had to ask. I'm glad that question didn't stir up all kinds of controversy because I definitley didn't mean it that way.

My best friends here are from Mexico and that's where I am getting a lot of my Spanish from. Once I called a girl and said "Que Unda?" She laughed and said: "That's Mexican!"
On a humorous note: I go to Florida often, so my friend's will say to me: "Ohhh that's Cubano!" when in fact I am trying to pronounce a new word that I just looked up in the dictionary.

Feel like speculating on Brandon?
Hmmmm I think I'll start a new post for that one.

V-Dude