Colombian Coast, Islands

[Zon]

I have been a beach kinda guy my whole life, and have only recently begun enjoying the mountains and higher altitudes.   I have spend much time in the Bahamas and Caribbean.   I am in the Florida Keys this week, and this place has turned into Walt Disney World South - bunch of people reaching for their wallets to eat and drink. 

I am not very interested in Cartegena.   I understand Santa Marta is a party town.   I would love to see the National Park Tayrona (it does seem a little remote)   Are there any "great finds" for people that like (really like) laid back coastal living in Colombia?

I am thinking of visiting Isle Margaritta of the coast of Venezuala next year ...

[chameleon]

Providencia is supposed to be one of the least molested islands in the Caribbean. There's a pretty good dive school there from what i've read too. Don't think you'll find luxury there. San Andreas is more resorty, which I personally hate. I haven't been to either myself yet so I'm just repeating what i've heard.

[dennislevy]

I ve been to both San Andres and Providencia. 
 
Providencia is BY FAR the least touristy of the two,  If you go to Providencia, have female companionship. Its a good place to go, if you want privacy.
 
San Andres has some big hotels and casinos. In almost any any large mall in any city in Colombia, you will see a table, behind it a portable backdrop photo display of a San Andres hotel and salespeope hawking vacation packages.  You can get off the plane in San Andres and if you have wheeled luggage walk to the strip. a cab is unecessary.
 
There were two places on the Colombian Caribbean coast that I spent a fair amount of time in. Puerto Colombia is a beach town 30 minutes west of Baranquilla. Puerto Colombia has maybe one hotel suitable to GRINGO standards, the Prado del Mar.
 
And la Guajira, beginning four and and a half hours EAST of Santa Marta wih its capital of Riohacha and between Riohacha and Cabo de Vella. In Riohacha, there are a few decent hotels on and near the beach....and you cant rent apartments by the day. The prices in Riohacha are in line with Rodadero near Santa Marta , for an apartment roughly 80,000-100,000 COP a day off season, 120-150,000 in season. None of these places have the endless white sand beaches that we all dream about, but for really laid back, Providencia is the best option
 
I ve never been there , but Isla de Margarita has a reputation for attracting sex tourists! 
 
   

[benjio]

I ve been to both San Andres and Providencia. 
 
Providencia is BY FAR the least touristy of the two,  If you go, to Providencia, have female companionship. Its agood place to go, if you want privacy.
 
San Andres has some big hotlels and casinos. in just about any any large mall in any city in Colombia you can find a table with a transportable photo display of a San Andres hotel and salespeope hawking vacation packages. You can get off the plane in San Andres and if you have wheeled luggage walk to the strip. a cab is unecessary.
 
There were two places on the Colombian Caribbean coast that I spent a fair amount of time in. Puerto Colombia is a beach town 30 minutes west of Baranquilla Puerto Colombia has maybe one hotel suitable to GRINGO standards, the Prado del Mar.
 
And la Guajira, beginning four and and a half hours EAST of Santa Marta wih its capital of Riohacha and between Riohacha and Cabo de Vella. In Riohacha, there are a few decent hotels on and near the beach....and you cant rent apartments by the day. The prices in Riohacha are in line with Rodadero near Santa Marta , for an apartment roughly 80,000-100,000 COP a day off season, 120-150,000 in season. None of these places have the endless white sand beaches that we all dream about, but for really laid back, Providencia is the best option
 
I ve never been there , but Isla de Margarita has a reputation for attracting sex tourists! 
 
   

Great info DL. I would recommend everyone that travels to Colombia to take a trip to see La Guajira. I've never written a trip report but it's really a very special place. For those that are familiar with the big cities in Colombia, it will seem like a completely different country.

[dennislevy]

Yes, Benjio et al. .
 
La Guajira is a much different country then the big Colombian cities......I spent a solid month in la Guajira....
 
To get to la Guajira, the options are

to take busses from wherever

to fly into Riohacha from Bogota........ compáratively speaking that is not a cheap flight.....
 
or to fly from Bogota or Medlelin directly to Santa Marta Airport, take a cab or a bus INTO Santa Marta and then look for a min van service or bus to Riohacha, 4 and a half hours east of Santa Marta
 
90 minutes further east from Riohacha is Macaio and unless a man has got a woman, Macaio ISN T worth visiting...trust me! There are MAYBE TWO decent hotels and MAYBE ONE decent restaurant in Macaio....The only beautiful building in Macaio is the largest Muslim mosque in the Western hemisphere!!!!!

And to go up the Guajira Peninsula to Cabo de Vella, then the only options are a bus or private van or private car service 
 
And when MANY newbie gringos hear the word...bus... that s the end of THAT trip idea!
 
jejejeje!
 
Also a good part of la Guajira is desert...if someone has been in the high desert of eastern Oregon or northern Nevada......that s akin to the northern part of la Guajira...semi arid, flying dust.....cacti...not as many species of cacti as in the Western US...but cacti that grow very tall
 
   

[JimD]

Yes a "great find" is Capurganá. Should be right up your alley. http://www.almar.com.co/ Probobly not up your alley but who knows, and way off the gringo trail are Bahia Solano and Nuquí. Both are in Chocó department on the Pacific side. I've been to Parque Tayrona once ( hamocks) quite easy to get to by bus from Barranquilla but ocean dangerous for swimming, Isla Providencia three times, a favorite, San Andres only to catch flight to Providencia, Capurganá three times, Nuquí twice and Bahia Solano twice. Both are favorites but probobly too primative and too far out there for most gringo tastes. Down the coast and closer to Buenaventura is Bahia Malaga which I haven't been to but which Colombian friends rave about. And two hours from Buenavetura in lancha is Juanchaco/Los Ladrilleros. This is the beach destination lower strata caleños go to since Buenaventura is only about two and a half hours away by bus. I would say skip it! The hotel area is the nastiest place I've been to in Colombia. However that was nine years ago and I've heard some nicer places have opened since but there are so many better options on the Pacific coast.

[Micky]

"I ve never been there , but Isla de Margarita has a reputation for attracting sex tourists!" - DL
 
And why do you mention an island of Venezuela?   It is more distant than the ABC islands off of  the Venezuelan coast.
 
Micky
Sorry DL,  I see that was from the Zonster.

[whitey]

I've heard lot's of good things about Providencia - that's probably your best bet.

I've been to Parque Tayrona twice.  It's definitely worth going to and something you should cross off your Colombian list.  Two days/one night is enough.  Last time there were just too many backpackers and gringos for me to deal with ... I doubt I'll go again, but very worth one trip.

I love Cartagena ... not sure why you are down on it, but many people put it down.  It's a great place to spend 2-4 days.

My wife and I really enjoyed the Decamercon resort on Isla Palma.  It's a small private island leased by the hotel (with no other hotels), only 40-something rooms, dolphin tank, eco park. Very quiet and beautiful - we felt like we practically had the place to ourselves.  It's about 2.5 hours by bus, then boat from Cartagena .... in high season there is apparently a boat from Cartagena that is probably shorter.

http://www.decameron.com/eng/colombia/isla_palma/overview.html

[Zon]

Thanks for all the solid info. 

Thusfar, I have stayed away from the coast of Colombia (because I have spent extensive time in the Bahamas, DR, and Jamaica).    I will check some of these places out when I get an itch to see the sea.

[JimD]

I've heard lot's of good things about Providencia - that's probably your best bet.

Not necessarily the best bet (Capurganá is the favorite honeymoon destination for newlywed paisas, romantic dinners on the beach etc) but it certainly is a good bet. The best place to stay is Cabañas El Recreo because it is the only lodging with a strip of beach in front of it. The food is not great (same old same old greasy fried fish with arroz con coco) so walk down the road five minutes to the restaurant Donde Martin. The owner is a chef from Bogotá and the food is excellent. There are three good beaches, one in front of El Recreo as mentioned and two others, much larger that are easiest to get to by renting a moto. All three times I have been there the beaches have been nearly deserted.

[whitey]

Not necessarily the best bet (Capurganá is the favorite honeymoon destination for newlywed paisas, romantic dinners on the beach etc) but it certainly is a good bet. The best place to stay is Cabañas El Recreo because it is the only lodging with a strip of beach in front of it. The food is not great (same old same old greasy fried fish with arroz con coco) so walk down the road five minutes to the restaurant Donde Martin. The owner is a chef from Bogotá and the food is excellent. There are three good beaches, one in front of El Recreo as mentioned and two others, much larger that are easiest to get to by renting a moto. All three times I have been there the beaches have been nearly deserted.

Sounds interesting, Jim ... will have to do some research ...

[Kiltboy1]

Cartagena is great if you forget the beach is nasty and the touts are like a mosquito infestation that you cannot get rid of. The old city though is as beautiful as any you will see. The Islas Rosarios are very nice and a great day trip.

I have been to Margarita Island and while the water and beaches beat to death anything the Colombian coast has to offer, the people suck !! They hate tourists and crime and murder are rampent on the island. I was there in 04 and 05 and there were 2 murders of tourists during that time and like all of Venezuela, nobody cares. Now women, well, IMHO, Venezuelan women are hands down the most beautiful women on the planet. It is a shame however that also happen to be the most stuck up self centered as well. Makes a Paisa look like a simple sweet girl
 
I was in San Andres one time and the water is on par with the Bahamas or the BVI;s which I had the pleasure to live in St.Thomas for 2 years back in the 80's and I frequented all the surrounding Islands and places like Foxy's on Yhost Van Dyke was a Sunday ritual for me back in the day along with Bombas Shack on Tortola
 
KB

[whitey]

Cartagena is great if you forget the beach is nasty and the touts are like a mosquito infestation that you cannot get rid of. The old city though is as beautiful as any you will see. The Islas Rosarios are very nice and a great day trip.

The touts don't bother me (except for the massage girls that never take no for an answer), but many gringos can't stand them.  For me, it's all just part of the fun of being in a different place.  You tend to get swarmed for the first 10 minutes or so, then are largely left alone.  Almost all will leave you alone if you acknowledge them by looking at them and saying "gracias".  Not sure why, but seems to be the norm and more polite to simply say "gracias" instead of "no, gracias".

I actually find them pretty convenient.  You can get whatever you want, whenever you want, delivered right to your chair in the carpa.  Beer, juice, water, food, icecream, popsicles, sunglasses, floaty toys, etc, etc.  Most are pretty helpful too - there has been several occasions where I asked a guy carrying a cooler if he had something, and if he didn't have it, he'd find another guy that did and send him over.

Now women, well, IMHO, Venezuelan women are hands down the most beautiful women on the planet.

Agree with you there!  Spent my first honeymoon in Venezuela and so began my attraction to latinas.  Couldn't believe how beautiful and sexy they were.  Didn't actually go out with a latina until almost 20 years later though ... but I never forgot!

[Zon]

Now women, well, IMHO, Venezuelan women are hands down the most beautiful women on the planet. It is a shame however that also happen to be the most stuck up self centered as well. Makes a Paisa look like a simple sweet girl

Thanks Bro!  That saves me a ton of time / or stems my curiosity in one shot. 

On that note, the more I look and wonder "what if", the more it seems that I already found a good place to hang out and live / mature / let life roll on bye.  Living in Colombia for even just a couple of months is a double edged sword to most men I have talked to - you seem to never be 100% satisfied ever again?  We will see...

[Zon]

One last thing, fellas ...

There are some very well travelled contributors here.   My interests do not NEED to be in the Country of Colombia ( I don't think ).   San Andres is a long ways!   Assume I get sick of the bueatiful mountains and want to get a sun tan on a hot Caribbean beach and take a Colombiana with me so I don't get bored (WITHOUT A BUNCH OF IMMIGRATION PROBLEMS), where are some of the best options?  Panama?  Aruba?  Jamiaca?  DR?   I have never looked into this?

[JimD]

I think Panamá would be the cheapest option. When I was looking at out of country beach resort destinations with my compñera I was kind of surprised to find Cuba was the most expensive (from Cali)-

[Micky]

Zon -
 
I think that JimD is correct with the Panama thing.   Close,  and some semi up scale and nice beaches just north of the city.  You can check but from years back I want to say Coronado and Gorgona (not the Colombia Gorgona).  As well as a couple of island resorts just a boat ride from PC.  JimmyD has all the answers.
 
Micky

[whitey]

Panama is high on my list of considerations for semi-retirement, although I will probably end up close to Barranquilla because of my wife's family.

It is a very attractive place to consider due to all the Chinese investment for the canal, better business and retirement visa options, easier banking, better security, duty free shopping ... and of course proximity to Colombia.